My Record, I hope (9 – 10 July)

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I left Pierre, crossing the Missouri and entering the Mountain Time Zone, two benchmarks.
I decided to change my route a little, and get the chance to stay at a bed and breakfast situated in a former Minuteman Missile control center (no joke). It did mean an 80 mile day, but it cut the day after to 40 miles. The road was pretty good, and like most around here, with relatively few vehicles. The landscape is really beautiful. As it is rolling now, and when you are at the top of a ridge the views go for MILES. It is also surprisingly lush, due to unusual rains, I was told later by my hosts.

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This area is really empty. Leaving Pierre a sign announced no hope of support for 66 miles.

Services

About 40 miles in, I was running out of water. I have water purification systems, but applying them to large puddles that cows are standing in is too much. As I entered the town of Hayes, I saw several small planes taking off and landing. Turns out it was a crop dusting company. I pulled in and asked for water. Two young guys showed me a source and a woman got me some bottled water. Once again, people have been very helpful. This is a picture of Rawson, one of the two guys. Thanks Rawson!

Rawson in Hayes SD

Besides the water glitch, things went well for the first 70 miles, as the wind was from the side, a theme here in South Dakota. Then I had to turn due south, and had the wind in my face. That was hard after so many miles on the road, and 12 miles to go. (I also did not find services even after 66 miles.)  Finally, I reached a ridge with huge water and communications towers, which I was pretty sure was just before my B&B. Then I noticed my GPS said 6 miles to go! NO! Yes. I said some words. I finally reached the turn off for the Missile Inn B&B. Dirt, but well packed. VERY happy to arrive. (Day total 87.5 miles)
Hosts George and Sandee Gittings took good care of me. The B&B is a funny mix of 1963 era military utilitarian architecture and the homey touches they have added. I was exhausted. I ate the food I had brought, expecting no dinner, and lay on my bed, thinking I might just drift off. I was awakened by a knock, and George invited me to join them for dinner. They had chicken pot pie (my last meal request when I am executed) they bought from Hutterites. Just wonderful. I also drank about 10 gallons of fluids.
Sandee brought out a fascinating report written when the centers were decommissioned in 1993. Everything from their design to the sociopolitical context to environmental concerns to summaries of public hearings. Crews of two workers spent 2 hours in a subterranean bunkers (of course) with their fingers on trigger buttons that would end the world as we know it. Luckily, two different centers both had to hit firing buttons to end the world… George told me EVERYTHING that was going on with the B&B and in the area. Next time you are in South Dakota, stay there.

Missile Inn B & B
Today was much shorter, but pretty dull. I rode to Wall (of drugstore fame). Along the way I visited Cottonwood, which has shrunk to a population of 12. (Is one state championship in some sport too much to ask?)

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I was drawn in because of this amazing abandoned church.

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Got to Wall and visited the famous Wall Drug.

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Even more disappointing than expected. (And I am a sucker for Jackalopes.)

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Wall is holding a mini festival.

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Sadly subdued. Part of it is a rodeo going on, but I was chased out by mosquitoes (I was warned that I might be).

Not staying here:

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But I am here:

 

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Maybe my bike won’t get stolen.  Here’s one just sitting in someone’s yard.

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2 thoughts on “My Record, I hope (9 – 10 July)

  1. FC Jenn's avatarFC Jenn

    87.5 miles?!? Some days you’re like a crazy person. Glad to hear you made it safe and sound, averting both crippling dehydration and any more tibialis flare ups. And how cool that you really did get to spend a night at your fabled Missile Inn. I think you should get one of those mounted jackalopes to mount on the back of your riding jersey. That might get you some honks from passing truckers. Hope you’re finding time to enjoy the dark skies that you must be under at night. And congratulations on yet another time zone. You make this all look easy.

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  2. betsywest's avatarbetsywest

    Hi, Gabe,
    Congrats on Mountain Time.
    I have been thinking about you often on my modest trips around NYC and New England. Along the lines of, “If Gabe can overcome gravelly roads, cracked or missing asphalt and an aching tibialis, then I guess I can suck it up this little hill in Morningside Heights.”
    Because Central Park and the riverfront bike paths are now overrun with enthusiastic bikers, I have lately been exploring northern Manhattan. Today, some pals and I rode through Harlem to Ft. George and across the recently reopened High Bridge, a Roman-style aqueduct that towers 140 feet over the East River. It was the city’s first bridge, built to carry water from the Croton Reservoir, and a popular promenading destination in the 19th Century for people dressed up in their Sunday best. Today, we bikers, runners and walkers are a little more sparsely clothed, and as we glided across the refurbished brick walkway, I could only imagine what the Bronx looked like before the train tracks, public housing projects and Major Deegan and Cross Bronx Expressways.
    The returning view of Manhattan is a little more prosaic, thanks to a park along the Harlem River Drive and, dead ahead, the looming water tower that you may remember from Caleb Carr’s The Alienist.
    Speaking of thrillers, I’m glad to hear that Lisa’s family was not in residence for the great Adirondack manhunt. Of all the gin joints, Lake Titus!
    Thanks for keeping up the vivid road reports. Only request: more selfies!
    xo
    Betsy
    BTW, I have been having trouble posting to WordPress, so this may or may not be a duplicate post. Previous one disappeared after I logged in.

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