(Click on any image for a larger view.)

Today’s ride was a little strange. I started somewhat late, because the only restaurant around didn’t open until 7:30, and there were almost no other food options on my day’s route.  At least the food was excellent.  Terrific homemade corned beef hash (with Hollandaise!) and maybe the best biscuits I’ve ever eaten.  The place is called Cheyenne Crossing, and has been there for over 100 years.

Where I stayed was at an altitude near 6000’, and it was cool when I started riding. There was a steep downgrade for 3 miles, and the cool air and 40 mph wind generated by my descent made it a little uncomfortable. Worse, I knew I had to climb about 2000’ to a pass before leaving the Black Hills, and I thought it might be very steep. I knew that every foot of the descent meant an equivalent foot to climb back out, so I couldn’t really enjoy it. Worrying about this distracted me. Also, the altitude was actually noticeable in terms of how I felt. I was slightly winded for the first time, and a little tired overall. And, my tibialis tendon, which had been feeling better, was starting to act up again.  All of this put me in a bad mood in spite of the continuing beautiful scenery. (I really recommend the Black Hills.)

The route followed a gorgeous stream, with crystal clear water. In places it was surrounded with thousands of small blue flowers. If it hadn’t been so cool, I definitely would have taken a dip.

Roads that follow streams almost always have relatively gradual slopes, and this was no exception. So my worry about a steep climb in my weakened state was groundless.
I finally reached the pass, and began the descent, leaving the park and entering Wyoming.

I went through a place called Buckhorn, which as far as I could tell was nothing but a roadside store. I didn’t stop because I was going to do that a few miles farther at a place called Four Corners. Mistake. There was really nothing at Four Corners except the intersection of the road I was on and the one I was going to take. No refreshments, not even any water, and I was starting to run low. This was halfway through my ride, with another 30 miles to go. It was getting hot, and I was turning into the wind, and losing the steep downgrade of the past 10 miles. I even expected the scenery to get much worse. I REALLY felt discouraged, but had nothing to do but to keep pedaling.

Then I was surprised. For no reason I can explain, the pedaling got easier, despite the wind (which was at least light) and the grade (which was actually pretty flat). And the scenery, though quite different from the Black Hills, was also beautiful. There was a kind of expansiveness to the landscape that I hadn’t seen before. (Sorry, this picture doesn’t really capture it.)

An historic marker discussed the sad history of Custer and an overwhelming force exploring the Black Hills despite their being off limits according to a treaty with the native Americans.

Of course, we broke the treaty and pushed them onto reservations elsewhere.  There were root vegetables placed at the foot of the marker.  I’m guessing these are placed there by native Americans as some sort of remembrance?

So the miles went by relatively quickly, and I arrived in Sundance, WY. (No, not Sundance, UT, of film festival fame.)

The town is small and has a small downtown.  This one old bank building was quite beautiful.

Because I’m in steak country, I had a roast beef stuffed flat-bread that sounded interesting, but wasn’t.  As an appetizer I tried Texas Toothpicks, which I had seen on a menu previously.  They are strips of onions and jalapenos that are breaded and deep fried.  These were pretty bland.

Tomorrow the forecast is for wind slightly from the east (but mainly south).  That should make my ride to Gillette a little easier.  The day after is one of the most challenging of the trip.  It will be 79 miles, with potentially no services along the way.  I pray the wind is easterly that day too.